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)OWN THE GARDEN PATH 

(3y Dorothy Qiles 




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Down the Qarden Path 



PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS for FLOWER 
and VEGETABLE GARDENING 

is one of a series of service books 
issued by McCalL'S for its readers. 
The purpose of the booklets is to 
help the homemaker to arrange and 
simplify her daily life, enabling her to 
find time and strength for those 
interests which lie outside the narrow 
circle of household cares. 

Gardening is one such interest, too 
often thrust aside for want of time. 
But when America shall have become 
a land of little gardens as well as of 
great ones, when the flower-garden on 
the farm, along the village street, in 
the suburbs, is the rule and not the 
exception we shall find a new spirit 
abroad and a loveliness which will do 
much to bring beauty to dwell with us. 



€?. 



Copyright, 1922, Tlie McCall Company 



©ClA69e029 

DEC 18 '22 



1 



-3 







The Making of a Garden 

BY a garden," said Newman, "is meant mystically a place of spiritual repose, 
stillness, peace, refreshment, delight." 

Size and type have nothing to do with it. It may be a narrow border at 
the back of a city lot, a careful grouping of beds and shrubbery in one of the 
gardened suburbs, a window box and a shelf of flower pots in the sky parlor of a 
towering apartment house, or a broad planting of gay posies to divide the dooryard 
from the farm. In any case, if it offers a door of escape from the commonplace- 
ness of life, if it fills an urgent need of beauty, if it brings us face to face with the 
elemental facts of seed-time and harvest, it is worthy the name of garden, and 
deserves not only recognition, but thought and care in the planning. 

How early in the year those garden plans can begin depends on the zeal of the 
gardener. We are a hopeful tribe, and most of us live entirely in the future. It is 
seldom this year's harvest that delights so fully as the prospect of next year's 
sowing, and I should say that the earlier in the year you make your plans the 
better, since this gives opportunity not only for more careful consideration, but a 
prolonged pleasure of expectation. 

First comes the selection of the garden site. This should not be so far from 
the house that the busy housewife cannot snatch twenty minutes whUe the cake is 
in the oven to weed her marigolds. Few of us can set aside a whole day for 
uninterrupted work in our gardens, but there are hours and half-hours and ten- 
minute breathing-spaces which if the garden is intimately close at hand may be 
turned to good account. 

Sun-exposure is of prime importance. Keep clear of dense, overhanging branches, 
particularly evergreens, of the close shadows of high walls, hedges or tall shubbery. 

The ideal garden-site is well opened to the morning as well as the afternoon 
sun, receives partial shade from tall, open branched trees, and has some measure 
of protection against the north winds in winter. 

If it slopes slightly, so much the better, since after sun, drainage is the next 
essential to success. 



All this may sound very discouraging to the garden-amateur, but for her 
consolation let me add that where trees flourish she need have no fears of starting 
a garden, since their long roots pierce the sub-soil and provide natural drainage. 

Having chosen your site the next step is to plan the garden on paper. Draw an 
outline of the beds you purpose making, their proportionate length and width, 
remembering that for flowers a bed five feet wide is more easily weeded than one 
six or eight feet across: that a better architectural effect is gained by planting in 
long borders than in spotty beds cut into the turf; that a vegetable-garden which 
allows for paths is more conveniently cultivated than a wide, uncharted patch, and 
above all that it is poor generalship to make a garden bigger than one can care 
for properly. A dozen Sweet Williams, well tended, will yield more and finer 
blooms than fifty neglected plants. 

As soon as the ground has dried after the frost has come out you can begin your 
outdoor preparations. A simple test is to turn over a -spadeful of earth; if it 
crumbles as it falls it is ready for the plough but if it shows a sticky tendency 
and forms a muddy lump, you must curb your impatience for a while longer. 

The whole purpose of the spring cultivation is to render the top soil rich and 
friable. This involves the use of fertilizer and a thorough working. In large 
gardens ploughing and a subsequent harrowing of the soil will be necessary, but 
small beds are best forked to the depth of two feet and then raked smooth. If you 
are making your garden in virgin soil the sods that you turn over should be broken 
up and forked into the ground to rot. They are rich in humus and form one 
of the best fertilizers. Clay, sandy, or worn-out soils are especially benefitted by 
this. Acid soil, or ground that has grown sour by the use of too heavy manures, 
should have a dressing of lime, or of all the wood ashes that you can beg, borrow 
or steal. Indeed open fires are a boon to the gardener since the ashes gives the 
necessary potash, and the chimney-soot is a preventive against grubs and cut-worms. 

To determine whether your soil has grown sour, mix a little in a cup with 
water, insert a strip of litmus paper, which if lime is needed, will turn pink. For 
each one hundred square feet of surface ten to twenty pounds of lime will be 
required. 

The fertilizer, either well-rotted barnyard-manure or one of the commercial 
fertilizers which contain nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash, should be spread 
generously over the ground after the ploughing or first spading, then turned under, 
and the surface raked smooth. A week later, provided there have been no heavy 
rains, you can begin your planting. 



The Flower Garden 

THUS far these directions are equally applicable to the vegetable-garden and to 
the flower-garden. In this chapter let us consider the flower-garden alone, and I 
have taken it first because this is essentially the woman's sphere. It is safe to 
suppose that men, left to themselves, would grow corn and potatoes, but bow 
many roses and hollyhocks would blossom in the dooryards? 

It is not a question of superiority of merit. We have need and room for both. 
When America shall become a land of little gardens as well as of great ones; when 



the flower garden on the farm, in the village and in the suburbs is the rule rather 
than the exception, we shall find a new spirit abroad and a pervading loveliness 
which will do much to remove from us the stigma of materialism. 

The flower-garden has to meet two requirements — it must provide blossoms 
for cutting, and it must be in itself a thing of beauty. Commercial florists find it 
profitable to grow flowers like carrots in mathematically precise rows, but there 
is little, in such a sight, to appeal to the beauty sense. Nor are beds shaped like 
stars or crescents other than grotesque. 

The well-planned flower-garden bears a distinct relation to the house beside 
which it stands. The two should stand as a whole. For instance, a bungalow or 
Colonial cottage calls for a more informal type of garden than is appropriate to a 
brick or stucco house. Plaster urns and garden statuary that are both dignified 
and satisfying in gardens of the Italian type appear incongruous beside a shingled 
house, while by the same golden rule, a wide-porticoed mansion demands of its 
owner something more generous than a bed of sparse geraniums and cannas. 

So plan your flower-garden to agree with your house, and to fit into the 
landscape as though it really belonged and had not been added as an afterthought. 
Draw a diagram, to scale, of the flower-beds, either a long border or four 
triangular corner beds enclosing a tiny grass lawn, or whatever form pleases you 
most, and then with this before you, go over the catalogues which begin to arrive 
soon after the New Year, and make out your seed lists. 

If you are a new gardener you had better learn at once the three classes into 
which all flowering plants are divided: first, annuals, those which, sown in the 
spring, come to maturity and bloom that summer, and die in the autumn. Second, 
biennials, which are plants of two year's growth. Sown in the spring they do not 
come to maturity that season, but live through the winter, bloom the following 
summer, and then die. And third, perennials, requiring two or three years to 
mature, but which then go on living and blooming for many years. Peonies are 
perennials. I know a famous old garden in the Hudson valley where the peonies 
are more than one hundred years old; but where they still bloom each June with 
undiminished ardor. And while beds of annuals like petunias, asters, or nasturtiums 
are brilliant for a time, it is the long-lived flowers, the phlox, the poppies, and the 
larkspur, which are richest in garden associations and significance. It is well, 
therefore, in planning your garden to allow room for perenials and biennials as 
well as annuals, only, in using these, you must be prepared to wait a season for 
them to attain their glory. 

If there is a gardeners' battle-cry, and if not there should be, it is "Continuous 
Bloom." That is the ideal we all strive for— flowers from April to frost— no bare 
spots, no barren weeks of waiting between the roses and the August blaze of 
annuals. And by this standard garden-success is guaged. Continuous bloom even 
within the range of a very small garden is a lively possibility and comes of 
careful planning. In the Flower-Chart, given at the end of this chapter, I have 
listed the most popular flowers in the three classes which may be grown with 
general success practically everywhere in this country. California and Florida 
gardeners can add many others of semi-tropical growth which are barred to those 
who live in colder climates, while in the northern states where spring comes late 
and winter early one cannot reasonably expect a flower-season of more than 
five months. 



By the aid of the Flower-Chart and the seed-catalogues you will be able to 
make out your list so as to include early, mid-season, and late blooming plants; 
tall plants for the back of the beds, and low growing ones for a border; and all 
of colors that will harmonize. 

Then when your list is complete, take up the diagram you have previously 
made and decide where you will plant each variety. Do you need more tall 
growing plants to form a background? Have you allowed enough hardy annuals 
for the last September and October garden days? Are you sure that you are not 
relying upon biennials like foxgloves and Canterbury bells for this season's bloom? 
Their places will have to be taken by annuals for the first year, but by starting 
them now you are keeping ahead of the calendar. 

It is impossible to lay down absolute rules about the amount you will need 
of each, save the general one that of perennials, biennials, and those annuals which 
grow as individual plants, like petunias or asters, one packet will yield enough for 
a garden of moderate size. Of annuals like alyssum and mignonette which are 
sown in the open ground in a mass, one packet wUl plant a drill six feet long. 
If you want special color combinations, of asters let us say, you will need a packet 
of white, one of pink, and one of lilac, using only a part of each. Experience 
teaches that it pays to be generous in ordering seeds, since one must allow for 
losses, accidents, and alas! for mistakes, while close planting does much to 
eliminate weeds. 

When the seeds come from the nurseryman decide which of those you have 
ordered need to be started under glass in order to have plants big enough to 
bloom that season. Sin':e you must needs wait a whole year for the perennials 
and biennials, at all events a few weeks' delay now will make little difference and 
all these may be started in the open ground after the first spring-rush is over. 
So too with all the annuals except those marked with an asterisk in the Flower- 
Chart. Those so marked are of slower growth and need, for the best success, to be 
started about March first in the hot-bed or in flats in the house. 

A hot-bed is a pit about four feet deep filled to within six inches of the surface 
with rotted leaves and manure, and covered with fine, rich soil in which seeds wOl 
sprout rapidly. Over this rests a glass sash on a wooden or cement frame. A 
cold frame differs from a hot-bed in that it has no pit beneath, the frame resting 
on the ground and banked about with manure. Since it lacks the heat from below 
it cannot be used until later in the season, when the frost is coming out of the 
ground. 

A small hot-bed is not difficult to make and ought to be an accessory to every 
garden, but if needs must, you can supplement this by starting your seeds in flats 
in a sunny window. The soil for filling the flats should be: one part sand, one 
part leaf-mold or humus, and one part garden-earth, rubbed through a sieve to 
free it of all lumps or stones. 

When the flats are filled mark off shallow drills with the point of a lead-pencil, 
and scatter the seeds from the tip of a spoon as thinly as possible, since the process 
of germination requires room for the seed to move, and to have the seedlings come 
up uncrowded ensures stronger plants. 

After sowing, the flats should be watered and put in a warm place, on the top 
of a radiator or near a stove. Light is not essential. Watch them carefully never 
permitting the soil to dry out, and as soon as the seedlings break ground remove 



to a sunny window and cover for a few days with a pane of glass which will tend 
to keep in the moisture. 

When the seedlings have developed their second set of leaves they should be 
transplanted uito other flats filled with slightly richer soil. In transplanting care 
must be taken to preserve the tender roots and the plants should be set deeper than 
before, and about two inches apart. Water thoroughly and shade with a newspap)er 
from the bright sunlight for a day or two until they recommence growing. 

By April fifteenth the flats can be moved to a cold frame in the garden, and the 
sash opened for a few hours during the warm part of the day. Later it should be 
removed altogether to harden the plants before setting them out in the garden 
which, in the latitude of New York ought to be about the tenth of May. 

Meanwhile the hardier seeds have been sown in a seed-bed out-of-doors about 
the time that the maple-buds break into leaf. Indeed it is better to build one's 
garden-calendar around nature's signs like this than to rely on dates which cannot 
be significant to all parts of the country. 

The seeds sown out-of-doors should be treated exactly like those in the flats, 
that is, sown in drills, transplanted when they attain their second set of leaves, 
then transplanted again to the places where they are to bloom. The double trans- 
planting tends to produce stockj', well-rooted plants which will withstand drought, 
the great enemy to gardening in America, better than the spindly seedlings which 
have made their growth in only one soil. All flowers are benefitted by transplanting 
except mignonette and Shirley poppies which must be sown where they are to bloom. 

When the time comes for setting out your plants consult the diagram of which 
we have spoken so often — tall plants at the back of the beds, bushy plants for the 
center, and along the front edge a low border of alyssum or dianthus or mignonette. 
In planting remember that a group of three or five or even more plants of one 
kind produce a better effect than isolated specimens or long, straight lines; also 
that each bed should receive sufficient varieties to ensure bloom there all through 
the season. The perennials and biennials are best left in the seed-bed until September 
when they will be big enough to move to their permanent places in the garden. 
It is well, too, to leave some plants in the seed-bed as a reserve stock to fill in the 
gaps later on; for example forget-me-nots die down after blooming and leave an 
ugly bare space into which, if you are wise, you will set a few marigolds or 
calendulas which can be moved without ill effect at any time. 



FLOWER CHART 

(P. — Perennial, B. — Biennial, A. — Annual) 

Name Type Color Height Season of Bloom 

Achillea P. White 2 feet July-Aug. 

Alyssum A. White 6 inches June-Oct. 

Anchusa P. Blue 4-5 feet June 

Anemone P. White, pink 2-3 feet Sept. 

*Aster A. White, pink, lilac 2-3 feet Aug.-Sept. 

purple 

*Balsam A. Pink, white 18 inches Aug.-Sept. 

*Calendula A. Yellow, orange 12 inches July-Oct. 

*Calliopsis A. Yellow, orange 12 inches July-Oct. 

Candytuft A. White, pink 12 inches June 

Candytuft P. White 9 inches May 

Campanula medium.. B. White, blue, pink 3 feet June 

7 



FLOWER CHART 

(P. — Perennial, B. — Biennial, A. — Annua!) 

Name Type Color Height Season of Bloom 

Campanula Persicifolia P. White, blue 2 feet June 

Centaurea A. Blue 2 feet May-June 

Columbine P. All colors 2-3 feet May- June 

Coreopsis P. Yellow 2-3 feet June-Oct. 

Cosmos A. White, pink 6 feet Sept.-Oct. 

Chrysanthemum P. All colors 3 feet Oct. 

*Dahlia P. All colors 6 feet Aug.-Oct. 

Daisy, English B. White, pink 6 inches May 

Delphinium P. Blue 3-6 feet June 

Delphinium A. Blue, pink, lilac 18 inches July 

Dianthus P. White, pink 12 inches June 

Eschscholtzia A. Yellow 12 inches July-Oct. 

Feverfew P. White 2 feet June-Sept. 

*Forget-me-not B. Blue 8 inches May-June 

Foxglove B. White, pink 5 feet June 

Gaillardia P. Yellow, red 2 feet July-Oct. 

*Gaillardia A. Yellow, red 18 inches July-Oct. 

Globe Amaranth A. Pink, red 15 inches July-Oct. 

Gypsophila P. White 2 feet July 

Helenium P. Yellow, red 6 feet Aug. 

Hemerocalis P. Yellow 3 feet June 

Hollyhock P. All colors 6 feet July 

♦Heliotrope A. Blue 12 inches July-Oct. 

Iris P. All colors 2 feet May- July 

Lupin P. Blue, white, pink 3-5 feet May- June 

Monkshood P. Blue 3 feet Aug. 

*Marigold, African A. Yellow 4 feet Aug.-Oct. 

*Marigold, French A. Yellow, red 2 feet Aug.-Oct. 

Mignonette A. Green 12 inches June-Oct. 

Nasturtium A. Yellow, orange, pink 12 inches June-Oct. 

Nicotiana A. White 3 feet July-Oct. 

*Pansy A.t)r B. Blue, yellow, purple 6 inches April-Oct. 

*Petunia A. All colors 12 inches July-Oct. 

Peony P. All colors 3-4 feet June 

Phlox P. Pink, white 2-3 feet July-Aug. 

*Phlox A. All colors 12 inches July 

Poppy, Oriental P. Red, pink 3 feet May-June 

Poppy, Shirley A. All colors 2 feet June 

Portulaca A. All colors 6 inches July-Oct. 

Platycodon P. Blue, white 3 feet July 

Rocket P. White 3 feet June 

*Salvia A. Red, blue 3 feet Aug-Oct. 

Shasta Daisy P. White 2 feet July 

Sweet William B. or P. All colors 12 inches June- July 

♦Snapdragon A. All colors 2 feet June-Oct. 

Valerian P. White 4 feet June 

Viola P. Blue, purple, yellow 8 inches May-Oct. 

♦Verbena A. All colors 8 inches June-Oct. 

♦Zinnia A. All colors 2-4 feet July-Oct. 

• Plants of slow growth. For best success, start about March first in hot beds or in 
fiats in the house. 

8 



The Vegetable Garden 

ALL vegetables, with the exception of asparagus, artichokes and rhubarb, are 
annuals, and therefore must be forced by rich soil, moisture and frequent 
cultivation if they are to produce abundantly in the short season allotted to them. 

I have already spoken in Chapter Two of the method of starting seeds in a 
hot-bed or cold-frame or in flats in the house, and the same rules hold true in 
regard to vegetables. The following vegetables should be so started: early cabbage, 
early lettuce, celery, cauliflower, eggplant, peppers and tomatoes. 

All others are sown in drills or hills in the open ground, the peas first, since they 
are extremely hardy and should be planted as soon as the ground is ready. By the 
time the first planting of peas breaks ground the carrots, beets, radishes, spinach, 
onions, leeks, parsnips, potatoes and turnips may be planted, to be followed when 
all danger of frost is past by the corn, cucumbers, beans both the lima and string 
varieties, melons and squash. 

The vegetable-garden is more successful if a definite planting-plan is followed. 
Mark off on paper the number and length of planting-rows your garden has room 
for, then decide how much space you will allot to each vegetable. Most catalogues 
quote the amount of seed needed to plant a one-hundred-foot row, and if you can 
make your rows of this length or a fraction of it, it will be fairly easy to estimate 
how much seed of each sort to order. 

Another object gained by following a plan is that you have a record from one 
year to the next of the location of your crops. A vegetable seldom does well if 
grown two years in succession in the same spot, so where you have peas this year 
is the place for the tomatoes next season, and so forth. Also it is easier to plan 
an intensive gardening-scheme on paper than in the garden itself. 

Many vegetables have a short season and their places may be filled by a crop 
of late vegetables for winter storage, thus reaping two harvests from your land. 
About July fifteenth when the peas, early beans, beets, spinach, radishes and 
lettuce are over, fork the ground, add fresh fertilizer and plant a late crop of the 
same vegetables, only not in the identical places each occupied before. Root- 
vegetables have a tendency to grow coarse and fibrous when they are old, and are 
best for table use when immature. Those planted in July are therefore more 
delicate than if they had grown all through the summer months. 

The tender vegetables which have been started in the hot-bed or in flats are 
ready to be planted out in the garden about the middle of May when all danger 
of frost is over. They should be set in regular rows, about 18 inches apart. 

Application may be made to the Division of Publications, United States De- 
partment of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. for a list of Farmers' Bulletins. Of 
these I especially recommend Bulletins 460 (on Cold Frames) ; 1044 (City 
Vegetable Garden); and 1171 (On Growing Annuals). They are free. 

Many of the State Universities and Agricultural schools publish free literature 
which may be had on application. It is a wise plan to be in direct correspondence 
with your State College of Agriculture, not only to obtain the free bulletins, but also 
to refer to them your particular problems. The specialists there, having made a 
special study of gardening under the conditions of climate and soil in your state, 
can help you far better than any general pamphlet or bulletin can. 



LIST OF AGRICULTURAL COLLEGES 

(Address your letter, in each case, to the Director of Extension) 

Alabama Polytechnic Institute, Auburn, Alabama 

Arizona College of Agriculture, Tucson, Arizona 

California College of Agriculture, Berkley, California 

Colorado State Agricultural College, Fort Collins, Colorado 

Connecticut. State Agricultural College, Storrs, Connecticut 

Delaware Delaware College, Newark, Delaware 

Florida College of Agriculture, Gainesville, Florida 

Georgia State College of Agriculture, Athens, Georgia 

Idaho State College of Agriculture, Moscow, Idaho 

Illinois State College of Agriculture, Urbana, Illinois 

Indiana Purdue University, School of Agriculture, La Fayette, Indiana 

Iowa State College of Agriculture, Ames, Iowa 

Kansas State College of Agriculture, Manhattan, Kansas 

Kentucky State College of Agriculture, Lexington, Kentucky 

Louisiana State University and Agricultural, Baton Rouge, Louisiana 

Maine State College of Agriculture, Orono, Maine 

Maryland Maryland State College, College Park, Maryland 

Massachusetts Massachusetts Agricultural College, Amherst, Massachusetts 

Michigan Michigan Agricultural College, East Lansing, Michigan 

Minnesota University of Minnesota, Department of Agriculture, St. Paul, Minn. 

Mississippi Mississippi Agricultural College, Agricultural College, Mississippi 

Missouri State College of Agriculture, Columbia, Missouri 

Montana State College of Agriculture, Bozeman, Montana 

Nebraska College of Agriculture, Lincoln, Nebraska 

Nevada College of Agriculture, Reno, Nevada 

New Hampshire College of Agriculture, Durham, New Hampshire 

New Jersey State College of Agriculture, New Brunswick, New Jersey 

New Mexico State College of Agriculture, State College, New Mexico 

New York State College of Agriculture, Ithaca, New York 

North Carolina State College of Agriculture, West Raleigh, North Carolina 

North Dakota State College of Agriculture, Agricultural College, North Dakota 

Ohio State College of Agriculture, Columbus, Ohio 

Oklahoma State College of Agriculture, Stillwater, Oklahoma 

Oregon State College of Agriculture, Corvallis, Oregon 

Pennsylvania School of Agriculture, State College, Pennsylvania 

Rhode Island State College of Agriculture, Kingston, Rhode Island 

South Carolina Clemson Agricultural College, Clemson College, South Carolina 

South Dakota State College of Agriculture, Brookings, South Dakota 

Tennessee College of Agriculture, Knoxville, Tennessee 

Texas Agricultural College of Texas, College Station, Texas 

Utah State College of Agriculture, Logan, Utah 

Vermont State College of Agriculture, Burlington, Vermont 

Virginia Virginia Agricultural College, Blacksburg, Virginia 

Washington State College of Agriculture, Pullman, Washington 

West Virginia State College of Agriculture, Morgantown, West Virginia 

Wisconsin State College of Agriculture, Madison, Wisconsin 

Wyoming State College of Agriculture, Laramie, Wyoming 

10 



Summer Work in the Garden 

"Oh, Adam was a gardener, and God who made him sees 
That half a proper gardener's work is done upon his knees." 

FROM the day that your plants are set out or your vegetables come up in their 
neat rows, one obligation is laid upon the gardener — CULTIVATE ! All of us 
who have bent to the hoe or knelt reverently for the slow process of hand-weeding 
can appreciate the stem significance of the Biblical command to till the earth and 
know that "Singing, 'Oh, How Beautiful!' and sitting in the shade," grows neither 
vegetables nor flowers but only weeds. 

Proper cultivation consists in working the surface soU so as to keep it clear 
of weed-growth and free of the crust which even one day of brilliant sunshine after 
a heavy rain will produce. If the top-soil is kept loose and friable to the extent 
of forming a "dust-mulch" the underground-moisture will be retained much longer, 
and the dews will have a chance to benefit the soil, a thing greatly to be desired 
during the dry days of July and August. 

Indeed, a well-cultivated garden resists drought far better than a frequently 
watered one. If you find it necessary to water, do so either in the early morning 
before the sun is hot, or after sundown. Much harm is done by the action of 
brilliant sun on the wet foliage especially if the water you are using is cold. 
Watering from a watering pot filled with water that has been tempered by exposure 
to the sun is always better than hosing, though more arduous. 

July may bring otlier enemies feeside drought in the shape of pests and plant 
diseases. To forestall the ravages of blight, mildew and rust among perennial plants, 
experienced gardeners spray with Bordeaux mixture the last week in April and twice 
after that at intervals of two weeks. 

For pests like the green or black aphis which often attack nasturtiums a solution 
containing nicotine is advised. A ten-cent package of coarse tobacco left to soak 
over night in two gallons of water will make a simple, effective spray for all forms 
of plant-lice. The black beetles which attack the asters come out of the ground and 
may be checked by working chimney-soot into the soil about the plants. The 
cut-worms which girdle the young cabbage and pepper plants in May are driven 
off by the same method. Indeed, m setting out the plants it is well to sprinkle a 
trowelful of soot about each one. 

Certain vegetables, like cauliflower and egg plant, need continual feeding if 
they are to produce large fruits. Wood ashes will do wonders for them, or a few 
crystals of nitrate of soda worked into the ground about the roots. Only a few, 
remember, perhaps a teaspoonful to each, since its action is very powerful. 

There is no space here to take up the culture of roses, or of small fruits which 
every garden should have, or the bulbs which, if planted in October, will give you 
your early spring blooms. This little book can present only a short brief for 
gardening with the hope that more women will be encouraged to turn their thoughts 
gardenwards, and claim kinship with "green things growing." 



11 




000 913 247 8 



McCalFs Service Boo Inlets 



A Group of Little Homes. Compiled by Robert Cummings 
Wiseman from plans designed by famous small-house architects. 
Twelve houses, with complete architectural plans. 

The Modern Home: How to Equip it with Mechanical Servants 
and Manage it Wisely. By Lillian Purdy Goldsborough. 
Labor-saving devices and methods to do the housework in a 
servantlcss home. 

Down th^ Garden Path. By Dorothy Giles, member of The 
Garden Club of America. Practical directions for flower and 
vegetable gardening. 

Spending The Family Income. Why True Economy Means 
Living by a Plan. What a plan of expenditure includes— 
percentage of income to apportion for shelter, food, clothing, 
operating expenses, development, savings. 

Time-Saving Cookery. Prepared by The House of Sarah Field 
Splint. Menus and recipes all specially originated for McCall 
readers, indicating how package and canned foods, bought at 
the neighborhood grocery, can be used to supply delightful, 
well-balanced, wholesome meals, and at the same time spare 
the home-cook both time and work. 

Master Recipes. A New Time-Saving Method in Cpokery. 
Ten recipes given in one for making gelatin desserts, souffles, 
muffins, cream-sauce dishes, cream soups, sauces for meat or 
fish, custai'ds, bread puddings. Bavarian creams, ices, cakes, 
cookies, doughnuts, cake frostings, candies. 

What to Serve at Parties. Compiled by Lilian M. Gunn, Depart- 
ment of Foods and Cookery, Teachers College, Columbia 
University, from her articles previously published in McCall's. 
Menus and special recipes for Luncheons, Dinners, Teas, Sup- 
pers, Bridal Breakfasts and Children's Parties. 

Parties All the Year. One for every month. By Claudia M. 
Fitzgerald. Suggestions for rhymed invitations, games, contests, 
stunts, costumes, prizes, refreshments. 

More Parties. By Claudia M. Fitzgerald 

Entertaining Without a Maid. By Edna Sibley Tipton. Correct 
Table Service for Breakfast Parties, Luncheons, Teas, Recep- 
tions, Dinners, Sunday Night Suppers. 

The Bride's Own Book. Suggestions for Formal and Informal 
Weddings in the Church and in the Home. 

A Book of Manners. The etiquette of introductions, calls, 
mvitations, gifts, manners at the table and in public places, 
tips, mourning, correspondence, children's manners, etc. 

Friendly Mother: A Book of Prenatal Mothercraft. 



The 



To 



Written by Helen Johnson Keyes and approved by Franklin 
A. Dorman. M. D., Head of the Maternity Division of The 
Woman's Hospital, New York City. A guide for the young 
mother during the long months before her baby comes. 

get the booklets, address (enclosing postage) The Service 
Editor, McCall's Magazine, 236 West 37th St., New York City 



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